While it’s hard to think of Indian cuisine in Canada without thinking of Vij, when the now-famous chef became a restaurateur in the early 1990s, many diners were unaware of the vast diversity of Indian cuisine.

“The perception was that butter chicken, naan, and a samosa were Indian food,” says Vij.

Fast-forward to today, and two Indian restaurants in British Columbia and two in Ontario have received a Bib Gourmand designation. A Bib recognizes high quality and value from the Michelin Guide, among the world’s most prestigious restaurant rating sources.

The shift from butter chicken to Michelin status can be tied to the year 2000, when changes in government policy contributed to new waves of immigrants from India. While earlier immigrants came primarily from Punjab in Northern India, arrivals have come from all across India during the past 25 years. In addition to bringing their diverse cooking styles with them, some opened restaurants that have moved Indian cuisine closer to the forefront of Canada’s culinary scene.

Vij's

One path maker in this evolution is Vij’s, which has come along way since its original location opened in 1994. At its core were exceptional hospitality and dishes that embodied the authentic flavours of Indian home cooking.

“The idea was not that you were coming to a restaurant, but you were coming to somebody’s house, and you were coming to Vikram Vij’s house,” explains Vij.

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Vij also brought his European training to the table. The restaurant’s attentive service, well-curated beverage program, and delicious, beautifully plated food quickly gained the approval of diners, who lined up for hours for lamb “popsicles” in fenugreek curry.

The restaurant’s popularity grew with Vij himself, who published cookbooks, appeared on numerous cooking shows, and pushed the boundaries of how Indian cuisine is perceived.

Two Indian restaurants in British Columbia and two in Ontario have received a Bib Gourmand designation."

“‘Authentic’ is if you see passion and love and the utmost care given to the dishes. That’s authentic,” he says.

Decades later, the restaurant—now in its third and largest location—is as beloved as ever, with high-profile guests like Michael Bublé dining there when they’re in town. Vij is invariably on site as host, his hospitality as warm as the colours of the restaurant’s stained glass.

Over time, the food has become more expansive, with dishes like Goan-style halibut drawing upon the breadth of Indian cuisine.

“What has happened is that the boundaries of saying ‘This is North India, this is South India’ have disappeared,” says Vij.

Other dishes, like chicken schnitzel with butter chicken sauce, demonstrate a new tongue-in-cheek style.

Bolstered by the Michelin designation, Vij and his team continue to innovate, introducing signature beer and spirits, and launching My New Indian Kitchen with Jennifer Muttoo. The book not only perfectly captures the spirit of the restaurant; it also serves to further spread knowledge and appreciation of Indian cuisine.

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Karma Indian Bistro

The universal appeal of Indian cuisine is very apparent when visiting Karma Indian Bistro in Vancouver’s Kitsilano neighborhood. Groups of friends, and parents with their kids in tow, happily sit in this rustic yetchic room, complete with wood-plank paneling, subway tiles, and Edison pendant lights.

As they chat with one another, diners tear off pieces of fluffy garlic naan for scooping up rich curries like lamb vindaloo.

The impressiveness of the food is a testament to the talent of chef Vishal Kumar, who has been honing his craft for nearly 30 years in India, Germany, and Canada. Kumar, along with his son Rahul, initially considered opening a bar, but decided instead to bring their interpretation of Indian cuisine to the city.

Rahul feels Karma’s dishes are elevated by the complexity of his dad’s cooking, which prioritizes the quality and freshness of the spices, all roasted and ground in-house. Vishal then combines them to create coherent flavours.

“I think Michelin gives a lot of freedom to new chefs and restaurant entrepreneurs to experiment.”

“Indian cuisine, as you probably know, uses a lot of spices,” says Rahul. “Our goal with all the dishes is to make sure they’re balanced.”

While Vishal focuses on cuisine from his native Northern India, he also draws upon other regional dishes, including Southern Indian favourites like chicken madras with roasted coconut curry and black mustard.

Rahul’s prior training in hotels keeps the cooking and plating modern while staying rooted in tradition.

The Kumars prioritize the whole experience of visiting the restaurant, with a bar program that features creative cocktails such as a Cold Brew Chai Negroni, and a service team that’s eager to forge a genuine connection with guests.

“I think service is a unique thing about us, because a personal touch is very much involved when you dine at Karma,” says Rahul.

Karma was first awarded a Bib Gourmand in 2023, less than a year after opening—a rare and incredible feat.

“Everyone is very happy about it. It motivates us to do better,” says Rahul.

He believes Michelin’s presence in Canada, which was established in 2022, will lead to an even more diverse variety of Indian restaurants opening across the country.

“I think Michelin gives a lot of freedom to new chefs and restaurant entrepreneurs to experiment,” he says.

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Guru Lukshi & Indian Street Food Co.

In Ontario, the current dynamism of Indian restaurants is evidenced by two Bib Gourmand recipients: Guru Lukshmi, a South Indian restaurant in Mississauga, and Indian Street Food Co. in Toronto.

The former is known for its array of dosas, including an inventive pizza variation with marinara sauce and cheese, while Indian Street Food Co. showcases street food and regional cooking. Originally opened by famed chef/restaurateur Hemant Bhagwani, it is now co-owned by Arsh K and chef Yatin Bhatia.

“The past 25 years has been a period of tremendous growth for Indian restaurants in Canada.”

The aesthetic at Indian Street Food Co., with many black-and-white photos on colourful wood walls, is a tribute to Indian coffeehouses that have long been a fixture in Delhi and Mumbai. Diners are encouraged to treat the restaurant like a nostalgic gathering place, where they can sip a cup of masala tea while catching up over chaat, such as pau bhaji: spicy mashed vegetables served with soft buttered bread.

Those craving comfort-style dishes can take a tour of the menu’s “Curry Avenue” section for dishes like fish potli, a Kerala creation that features fish cooked in banana leaves with an onion-and-tomato sauce.

The restaurant celebrates the talent of street hawkers and regional Indian cooks, whose cuisine is now recognized by Michelin judges as equivalent to that of European-trained chefs.

Based on their Bib Gourmand accolades, it’s clear that the past 25 years has been a period of tremendous growth for Indian restaurants in Canada. The next 25 years promises to be equally bright.

More exciting restaurants have recently opened, including the sustainability-focused Lila in Vancouver, co-owned by Vij’s former partner Meeru Dhalwala; Kavita, a Vancouver restaurant that offers a tasting menu of regional Indian dishes; and Jamil’s Chaat House in Toronto, which is making room for Pakistani cuisine in the South Asian dining landscape.

Both Vij and Rahul Kumar are confident that a Michelin star is on the horizon for at least one of Canada’s Indian restaurants—perhaps their own.

“I’m sure it will happen,” Rahul predicts.

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